For the first time in 19 months, I slept until 10 am.
Lunch with Emanuela, Giovanni, and Leonardo at Podere Gori. Emanuela made home made ravioli and home made profiterole filled with custard and dripping with chocolate, yumyum. It’s time to harvest the olives so Giovanni and Leonardo ate quickly and went back to work. To my great surprise and delight, Emanuela asked if I would like to walk up to Montecatini Alto. I had not been there in years and I was curious to see how much it had changed. We made our way through the olive grove behind their house, (located at the foot of Montecatini Alto) and climbed up a precipitous rocky path, crossed some tiny creeks and walked the rest of the way on gravel and asphalt. We passed under the funicolare and waved at its passengers as they descended. Emanuela pointed out a variety of wild edible greens and explained how to cook them. She knows a lot about plants including trees and berry bushes. I told her that I wanted to propagate a caper plant because the one I had transplanted from my late mother’s house did not make it. She and I collected caper pods (there are caper plants everywhere) and she told me what to do. I am sooooo excited!
Montecatini Alto is as lovely as I remember it, but with more tourists and a lot more restaurants in the main piazza. The view of the city below unchanged, still gorgeous. We walked around leisurely and stopped in the church at the summit. I lit two candles. Emanuela whispered to me, one for Charlie and one for your mother? Si.
It was the perfect way to spend an afternoon. I never in my wildest dreams thought I would ever see Montecatini Alto again. I savored every moment. Truly special. On our way down, we did not interrupt Giovanni in the olive grove.
This is a good moment to plug their agriturismo, Podere Gori. There is another Podere Gori that has been plugged by Rick Steves, yes, that Rick Steves. Some American travelers have confused the two and, accidentally but happily, stayed with Emanuela. She and Giovanni have lovingly restored the family farmhouse and installed a restaurant style kitchen from which she makes everything from scratch. Emanuela can prepare a sumptious Tuscan meal, be it lunch or dinner. Also you can stay there in a Room With A View (see what I did there?) of the spectacular sunsets over Montecatini, sigh.
Just google Podere Gori and choose the one with her name (Emanuela Zucconi) to make a reservation. And of course, tell her I sent you. Forget Rick Steves.